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Copyright 2013 by
Randy Pflanzer
Technology Professionals Consortium
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   What's New?
  02/01/13 - Reformatted web page.



Prior to fitting the hood, I mounted about 8 pieces of the rubber molding around the perimeter so that I could take that into account while aligning things. 

I then bolted the hinges to the hood brace and the hinges to the hood.  In this picture, the hood brace is installed backwards.  It actually goes on the outside of the hinges.  Also, the round hinges are the ones for the hood, and the shorter bar is the one that goes with the hood.  I was prepared to heat and bend parts in order to get the proper alignment since these parts are not welded with much precision.  In my case, they aligned fairly well.


I trimmed the hinges to match those in the trunk.  I rounded the edges and I welded in scraps to close out the open slots.

I fit the hood to the body using some pieces to cardboard to hold it in place.  I then taped the hood down so it wouldn't move.  Then, I climbed underneath the car and drilled the holes for the cross brace.  I used spacers to fill the gaps.  This gives me some left to right adjustment to get the hood gaps set.

To mount the hood locking pins, I measured their location with the hood open, then I closed the hood and transferred the measurements to the hood.  I then drilled through both at the same time to get the proper alignment.  I drilled out the hole and mounted the pin.  I has some interference under the pin with the firewall.  I had to drill the firewall out to provide enough room for the bolt head.  Later, I will glass in a bubble around the nut so I can still get to it.

On top, the hood locks simply screw in from underneath.  I did not peel off the glue paper on the bottom side of the ring yet.  I'll do that after paint.

On the bottom side, I contemplated various ways to finish the opening.  In the end, I just decided to leave it alone and paint everything.  I don't think most people will see the gap between the inner and outer panels.


I decided to remove the inner liner so that the mounting plate can rest flat on the hood.  Above, you can see that I've removed the inner liner around the entire depression in the hood and poured in some 2 part foam.

After I sanded the foam down to the edges, I glassed in two plies of 9 ounce cloth.  These were later trimmed and the edge sanded to make a smooth transition.

With the hood attached in its final position, I then "gapped" the hood.  I first painted some primer around the edges and then used my protractor to draw and even gap all the way around the hood.  Using my belt sander, I sanded the edges down to the line.


After experimenting with some different air filter options, I found one that fit under the hood nicely.  However, that left me room at the front of the scoop for a lip, which looks better.  So I bonded in a lip from a scrap piece of glass.  I heated it to match the contour of the opening and then glassed it in place.

The trick in attaching the hood rod is establishing the proper geometry.  I first made a clip out of 1/8" steel.  The part you can't see is the top part of the clip that follows the inside contour of the body to provide extra support.  This is pretty solid although there is a little body bending if you really push on the hood.  I think it's solid enough.

This overall view gives you an idea of where I mounted both ends of the prop rod.


The first step is to assemble the windshield frame.  The sides screw to the side of the frame.  You have to be careful to not strip out these screws since the brass is fairly soft.  I also bent the tops a little to get them to conform to the shape of the glass a little better.

I laid out the location of the slots carefully.  After looking at a ton of pictures, I decided to align the posts in the center (forward and back) between the engine compartment and the instrument panel.  I also shot a center line on the body so I could get the windshield centered side to side.

After cutting some preliminary slots, I used my straps to hold the windshield in the proper rake angle.  I played with this a little bit to experiment with multiple angles.  I think the plans say to use 45 degrees.  I found that to be a little too low.  I sat in the car and my eyes and top of my head was above the windshield.  Not good.  After researching the rake of the original Cobras, I found that they were set at 42 degrees so that is what I used.

The windshield can slide a little front and back.   The critical measurement is 31 inches from the screw to the door jamb.

Here's a shot of the jamb location for the measurement.  31 inches gets the post out of the way so you won't hit your head on it getting in and out of the car.  It will also properly locate the wind wings and side mirrors.

Here's a shot of the final location.  While it was held in this position, I drilled two pilot holes in each arm to the cowl bar.  This must be done very carefully in order for everything to go back together properly.

I then removed the cowl bar and the windshield and drilled the assembly on my bench using an under sized drill bit and a reamer.  I want a tight fit on these bolts so my windshield is solid when bolted up.

Next step is to install the trunk lid.  That work will begin on the next page, once I get around to writing it.  I should have it soon so hang in there.