Since the engine is easy to
access at this point, I decided to install the headers. These also
provide some reference points for locating the engine front and back so now
is the time for them to go on. Previously, I ordered some exhaust
gaskets and a set of Stage 8 locking header bolts. Some guys have had
trouble with the bolts loosening up. Other have replaced the bolts
with studs and locking nuts. Others have used these locking bolts and
since that was the easiest way to go for me, that's what I went with.
I bolted up the
headers using liberal amounts of anti-seize compound on the bolts.
Since my heads are aluminum, I don't want any of these bolts freezing up
inside the threads. Note the orientation of the headers. The
more pronounced angle is towards the front of the engine. You'd be
surprised how long I had to search pictures to determine this fact.
Now's the time to
install the engine and transmission mounts. In the picture above, this
mount is installed on the wrong side. Once I got it over to the frame
I figured that out. The more acute angle on the mount should be
towards the front of the engine. So this is the left mount improperly
installed on the right side.
This is the
transmission mount and the cross member. Ignore the extra holes in the
cross member. I centered the mount in the cross member, drilled, and
mounted them to the transmission. The cross member is now removed so
that the engine/transmission can be dropped into the frame from above.
Slave Cylinder
Before
installing the clutch slave cylinder, I had to replace the clutch fork that
was originally sent to me with my transmission. The one above is
correct and is longer and weighted. To replace the fork, I had to pull
the engine and transmission out of the frame. Then I had to pull both
the transmission and the bell housing apart to get the new fork to snap into
place. What a pain in the rear.
The only parts
provided in the kit are the cylinder and a chunk of angle iron. I went
to the hardware store and bought a 5/8" bolt, nut, and lock washer to attach
the bracket to the bell housing.
After carefully
measuring, I drilled the two attachment holes and then trimmed away all the
excess steel. This is what I ended up with.
Some builders have
encountered difficulty with the bolts and nuts working their way loose on
the slave cylinder. To prevent that from happening, I drilled the head
of the mounting bolt and used some safety wire to secure the head to the
bracket
Above is the final
mounting. The washers on the mounting bolt can be removed or added to
change the length of the linkage. On the end of the cylinder, I
replaced the double locking nuts with a metal lock not, or pinch nut.
This will not vibrate off. Make sure you remember to orient the
cylinder with the bleed fitting down.
UPDATE: Some
folks questioned the fixed mounting of the rear of the cylinder citing that
the cylinder must pivot slightly as the clutch arm is pulled. In order
to address this, I made up a different bracket using some scrape angle and
flat stock. This allowed me to add a Heim bearing to the rear of the
cylinder so it can pivot.
Here is a picture of the new
installation. I kind of like this better anyway because it is more
compact. I used aircraft pinch nuts on all the parts so it wouldn't
vibrate loose. When this is bled, I will likely have to remove the
cylinder mounting and tip the cylinder so that the last bit of air in the
cylinder is under the bleed nipple. No big deal.
Engine Install
I connected up my
hoist and my spreader bar and carefully maneuvered the engine over to the
frame. I first dropped in the engine mounts. For my install, the
motor mounts have two off-centered bolts in a rubber sandwich. The
bottom bolt went into the inner-most hole of the frame. The round
dimple fits into the second hole. It is easy to install the rubber
mounts upside down (ask me how I know).
There are two
important measurements at this point. One, the engine needs to be
centered in the frame. I measured the front crankshaft pulley to the
inside of the frame on both sides. The other measurement is to get the
initial front to back measurement set. Based upon feedback from other
builders, I wanted to set the edge of the headers 2 1/2" forward of the
frame.
In order to get my
engine centered, I had to enlarge the mounting slot in the mount that bolts
to the engine. I took it off and used my torch and grinder to enlarge
the slot about 3/8" on the inside. On the other mount, I enlarged the
slot 3/8" on the outside. Once I did that, I could get the engine
centered.
This is what I ended
up on the left side of the frame. For now, that's a good starting
point. The real test is to mount the body to ensure the headers are in
the opening in the body. I have to wait for help to arrive to do that
so for now, this will do.
UPDATE:
The correct measurement is 2". I determined this after test fitting
the body to the frame once the engine was installed. I enlarged the
mounts a little to allow for the engine to slide towards the rear 1/2" and
re-installed everything.
Before drilling the
transmission cross member to the frame, it is important to get the engine,
transmission output shaft, and the rear end in alignment. I hung a
plumb bob from the center of the drive shaft tunnel at the end where the
rear end universal joint it. This is the best reference point I could
find in the rear. I then set up my laser level centered on the engine
and on the plumb bob. That's the picture you see above. Once I
had the laser centered, I moved the plumb bob to the center of the
transmission output shaft and moved the transmission side to side until I
had the output shaft centered on the laser. Now I know that the center
of the engine, the end of the transmission, and the center of the drive
shaft tunnel are in perfect alignment with one another.
With the transmission
centered, I clamped and then drilled the mounting holes for the bolts and
attached all the hardware.
Next step is to
install the ground strap and the radiator. That work begins on the
next page.
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