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Copyright 2013 by
Randy Pflanzer
Technology Professionals Consortium
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   What's New?
  02/01/13 - Reformatted web page.


Since the engine is easy to access at this point, I decided to install the headers.  These also provide some reference points for locating the engine front and back so now is the time for them to go on.  Previously, I ordered some exhaust gaskets and a set of Stage 8 locking header bolts.  Some guys have had trouble with the bolts loosening up.  Other have replaced the bolts with studs and locking nuts.  Others have used these locking bolts and since that was the easiest way to go for me, that's what I went with.

I bolted up the headers using liberal amounts of anti-seize compound on the bolts.  Since my heads are aluminum, I don't want any of these bolts freezing up inside the threads.  Note the orientation of the headers.  The more pronounced angle is towards the front of the engine.  You'd be surprised how long I had to search pictures to determine this fact.  

Now's the time to install the engine and transmission mounts.  In the picture above, this mount is installed on the wrong side.  Once I got it over to the frame I figured that out.  The more acute angle on the mount should be towards the front of the engine.  So this is the left mount improperly installed on the right side.

This is the transmission mount and the cross member.  Ignore the extra holes in the cross member.  I centered the mount in the cross member, drilled, and mounted them to the transmission.  The cross member is now removed so that the engine/transmission can be dropped into the frame from above.

Slave Cylinder

Before installing the clutch slave cylinder, I had to replace the clutch fork that was originally sent to me with my transmission.  The one above is correct and is longer and weighted.  To replace the fork, I had to pull the engine and transmission out of the frame.  Then I had to pull both the transmission and the bell housing apart to get the new fork to snap into place.  What a pain in the rear.

The only parts provided in the kit are the cylinder and a chunk of angle iron.  I went to the hardware store and bought a 5/8" bolt, nut, and lock washer to attach the bracket to the bell housing.

After carefully measuring, I drilled the two attachment holes and then trimmed away all the excess steel.  This is what I ended up with.

Some builders have encountered difficulty with the bolts and nuts working their way loose on the slave cylinder.  To prevent that from happening, I drilled the head of the mounting bolt and used some safety wire to secure the head to the bracket

Above is the final mounting.  The washers on the mounting bolt can be removed or added to change the length of the linkage.  On the end of the cylinder, I replaced the double locking nuts with a metal lock not, or pinch nut.  This will not vibrate off.  Make sure you remember to orient the cylinder with the bleed fitting down.

UPDATE:  Some folks questioned the fixed mounting of the rear of the cylinder citing that the cylinder must pivot slightly as the clutch arm is pulled.  In order to address this, I made up a different bracket using some scrape angle and flat stock.  This allowed me to add a Heim bearing to the rear of the cylinder so it can pivot.

Here is a picture of the new installation.  I kind of like this better anyway because it is more compact.  I used aircraft pinch nuts on all the parts so it wouldn't vibrate loose.  When this is bled, I will likely have to remove the cylinder mounting and tip the cylinder so that the last bit of air in the cylinder is under the bleed nipple.  No big deal.

Engine Install

I connected up my hoist and my spreader bar and carefully maneuvered the engine over to the frame.  I first dropped in the engine mounts.  For my install, the motor mounts have two off-centered bolts in a rubber sandwich.  The bottom bolt went into the inner-most hole of the frame.  The round dimple fits into the second hole.  It is easy to install the rubber mounts upside down (ask me how I know).

There are two important measurements at this point.  One, the engine needs to be centered in the frame.  I measured the front crankshaft pulley to the inside of the frame on both sides.  The other measurement is to get the initial front to back measurement set.  Based upon feedback from other builders, I wanted to set the edge of the headers 2 1/2" forward of the frame.

In order to get my engine centered, I had to enlarge the mounting slot in the mount that bolts to the engine.  I took it off and used my torch and grinder to enlarge the slot about 3/8" on the inside.  On the other mount, I enlarged the slot 3/8" on the outside.  Once I did that, I could get the engine centered.

This is what I ended up on the left side of the frame.  For now, that's a good starting point.  The real test is to mount the body to ensure the headers are in the opening in the body.  I have to wait for help to arrive to do that so for now, this will do.

UPDATE:  The correct measurement is 2".  I determined this after test fitting the body to the frame once the engine was installed.  I enlarged the mounts a little to allow for the engine to slide towards the rear 1/2" and re-installed everything.

Before drilling the transmission cross member to the frame, it is important to get the engine, transmission output shaft, and the rear end in alignment.  I hung a plumb bob from the center of the drive shaft tunnel at the end where the rear end universal joint it.  This is the best reference point I could find in the rear.  I then set up my laser level centered on the engine and on the plumb bob.  That's the picture you see above.  Once I had the laser centered, I moved the plumb bob to the center of the transmission output shaft and moved the transmission side to side until I had the output shaft centered on the laser.  Now I know that the center of the engine, the end of the transmission, and the center of the drive shaft tunnel are in perfect alignment with one another.

With the transmission centered, I clamped and then drilled the mounting holes for the bolts and attached all the hardware.

Next step is to install the ground strap and the radiator.  That work begins on the next page.